Sydney

a picture of a bonds billboard advertisement through a rainy window

Okay so it’s been a while since I made the trip to Sydney and as we all know the gay scene changes rapidly so this is more a general guide to what you should look out for and areas to visit rather than a comprehensive list of gay bars and restaurants.

🇪🇺 From Europe to Sydney (Since 1999, Usually for Mardi Gras)

G’day mates!

I’ve been landing in Sydney nearly every year since 1999 and usually around the Sydney Lesbian and Gay Mardi Gras. Every trip stretches about three weeks (because honestly the flight time from Europe is insane and the jetlag can sometimes be a week of that), and every trip feels like returning to a home I never had.

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March 2003 – Sydney Harbour Bridge Tour – Iain Croll

Exploring Sydney’s Gay Beaches

There is a more comprehensive guide to Sydney’s Gay Beaches here.

Obelisk & Cobblers

On my earliest visits, Obelisk Beach became my go‑to: a discreet gem nestled by Mosman, perfect for nude sun‑baking with a laid‑back, friendly crowd. No facilities, zero attitude—just Aussie men of all ages enjoying the harbour breeze (and sometimes, clandestine bush romps).

But around my third trip, I stumbled on Cobblers Beach—just down the coast. A tanner’s paradise at sunset, complete with grassy patches and a wardrobe‑optional vibe. It quickly became my golden‑hour ritual: speedos, snap‑happy mates, and content creators chasing that perfect light.

Little Congwong Beach, La Perouse

A few years into my Sydney tradition I ventured south to La Perouse. Same peninsula, but catch the right track (not the family-friendly Congwong, which is a bit like making the mistake of Balmins vs Dead Man’s beach in Sitges!).
Little Congwong is smaller, wilder, and more local. Known for unofficial skinny dipping (“they turn a (msotly) blind eye” to nudity and bush play), it offers jaw-dropping sunsets and, occasionally, that quirky ice-cream boat homage. Bring water, snacks—transport’s by Uber if feeling lazy.


Visiting Around Mardi Gras

I usually base myself in either Darlinghurst or Potts Point right near Oxford Street, the pulsing rainbow artery of Sydney. Annual catch-ups include sipping Vino at Palms on Oxford Street, dancing at The Imperial in Erskineville, and catching punchy drag performances at Stonewall or Colombian (still by far my favourite bar in Sydney).

During Mardi Gras, the city transforms. It’s Pride Incarnate: floats everywhere, a packed parade under early-March skies, and more glitter than a Eurovision afterparty. The vibe? Pure electric—so deeply political, and yet celebratory that you forget which is which.


Beyond Beaches: Local Secrets and Hidden Gems

  • Bondi to Coogee Coastal Walk
    A favourite on a hangover day: follow the cliffs from Bondi’s gay‑friendly north end, stop at El Indio in Bondi for tacos, then afternoon dip at Bronte or perhaps Coogee. Ferry home at sunset, head to Chinatown for dumplings and chatter.
  • Walks & Ferries
    Climb Circular Quay to Milsons Point, wander through Wendy’s Secret Garden, then ferry over to Manly. Take the North Head walks at dusk, ferry back under the Harbour Bridge lights. Cheap, cheerful, and oh-so-Sydney.
  • Cultural stops
    Visit The Rocks, opera‑house tours, explore Darling Harbour, hit the Botanic Gardens. And yes, there’s still a bit of that old‑school colonial charm—reminds me of London’s leafy vibes in spring. I guess that’s why so many Brits love Sydney.
  • Outdoor Pools
    Sydney also has some of the best outdoor pools in the world and certainly some of the most iconic (looking at you Icebergs)

Insider Tips for Sydney Beaches

TipWhy It Matters
Stay in Darlinghurst/Potts PointCentral, gay‑friendly, easy access to bars and transport
Opal Card for all transportPretty cheap caps for buses, trains, ferries, light rail
Best seasons to visitSummer (Dec–Mar) especially around late Feb–early Mar (Mardi Gras). Even winter’s okay though cooler
Bring sunblock & waterEspecially for remote beaches—no facilities at Obelisk, Cobblers or Little Congwong

Wonder Mama’s Walking Tour: History Served with Heels

From the get-go, Wonder Mama had us in stitches with her razor-sharp wit, bedazzled accessories, and sky-high heels that could have used their own postcode. This was no ordinary tour guide. No, darling because this was Sydney’s own super-heroine of queer history, wrapped in a corset, lashes, and a healthy dose of sass.

Now, I should say—this one’s personal. I first met Renny Roccon, the fabulous force behind Wonder Mama, way back in the very early 2000s. Back then, it was more likely over beers at Arq or crossing paths in the heart of Mardi Gras mayhem, but even then, Ren stood out: equal parts performer, activist, and walking glitter bomb. To see him now, fully transformed into this walking, talking, high-kicking encyclopedia of Sydney’s queer story, is honestly a joy, and one I recommend from the heart.

So, one sunny Tuesday this past Mardi Gras season, I signed up for the full Wonder Mama experience. We gathered near Hyde Park, caffeine in hand, sunnies on, and waited. And like a queer comet, she arrived: cape fluttering, lashes sky-high, ready to serve history and looks.

Our starting point was by the Australian War Memorial which grounded us in a sense of place and solemnity. From there, Wonder Mama guided us up Oxford Street with all the flair of a Mardi Gras parade float and the insight of a seasoned cultural historian (albeit one in 6-inch heels).

At Aussie Boys, we cackled over swimwear trends (tiny never goes out of style it seems). At The Bookshop Darlinghurst, she gave a touching nod to queer literature’s role in our survival, and the many nights spent flipping through the pages of lives that mirrored ours. Then on to House of Priscilla, a rhinestoned fever dream of drag and cabaret fashion, it’s basically Mecca for the feathered and fabulous.

She didn’t just name-drop venues she painted them with memory. Outside the Stonewall Hotel and Oxford Hotel, we paused not just to chat about nightlife, but to honour these institutions as sanctuaries of resistance and revelry alike.

At Taylor Square, the rainbow crossing glistened under the sun, as Wonder Mama reminded us of how that stretch of bitumen represents hard-won progress. The tour’s emotional peak came at the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Holocaust Memorial in Green Park. Her tone shifted, tender and reverent, as she honoured queer lives lost—victims of silence, hatred, and history itself. It was a beautiful gut-punch, and a moment I won’t forget.

By the end of the tour, I wasn’t just entertained I was profoundly moved. I’ve visited Sydney for over two decades, especially during Mardi Gras, and thought I knew this city. But Wonder Mama pulled back the sequin curtain and gave us the backstory layered, luminous, and lovingly told.

So yes, this is a glowing review, but also a personal one. If it’s your first time in Sydney, or your fifteenth, do yourself the favour. Join Wonder Mama. Learn something. Laugh a lot. Maybe cry a little. And leave feeling more connected to this glittering, gritty, glorious queer capital.

Trust me, darling this is the kind of experience you’ll be gabbing about over every espresso martini back home.

Walking Tour

Book Yourself a Show (or a Tour!) at the Iconic Sydney Opera House

I mean, come on it’s the Sydney Opera House. Skipping it would be like going to Paris and ignoring the Eiffel Tower. No thanks!

On one of my earlier trips, jet-lagged and wide-eyed after that epic long-haul from Europe, I decided to fight the fog with a pre-dawn walk to Circular Quay just in time to catch the sun rising behind the Opera House sails. Eccentric? Sure. But it was one of the most breathtaking, surreal travel moments I’ve ever had. Almost as good as my first ever day in Sydney when I was at Harbour Party on a dancefloor overlooking the Opera House.

But the Opera House isn’t just something to gaze at from the harbour. You have to go inside. Whether it’s for a show or a behind-the-scenes tour, it’s an experience that marries art, architecture, and a touch of Aussie grandeur.

Touring the Opera House

On one of my more historic visits, I booked the guided tour and to my surprise (and delight), our guide turned out to be Joe, someone I happened to know through dear friends I used to stay with back in the early 2000s. It made the whole thing feel that bit more intimate. Joe had that perfect mix of passion and charm, think “History Channel meets queer uncle energy”—and filled the tour with behind-the-scenes stories, insider tidbits, and a deep reverence for this architectural marvel.

From the backstage mechanics of the concert halls to the acoustic secrets of the main theatres, the tour gives you an insider’s peek most visitors miss. Even if you’ve seen a performance before, the guided tour adds layers of context and appreciation that’ll have you seeing the building with entirely new eyes. (Plus, you get to geek out over that iconic tiled roof up close.)

Catching a Show: Curtain Up on Unforgettable Nights

Of course, seeing something live at the Opera House is the main event. Over the years, I’ve been lucky enough to attend a number of unforgettable performances here including an emotionally charged production of Swan Lake over Christmas.

For the current lineup, I always recommend checking the Sydney Opera House website, or even better chat to your local hosts or friends in town. You might just end up with a little insider tip or surprise ticket hookup!

Bonus Mardi Gras Moment: Rainbow Sails

And if you happen to be in Sydney during Mardi Gras (as I often am), keep your eyes peeled at night: the Opera House glows with dazzling rainbow lights in honour of the LGBTQ+ community. It’s a powerful symbol—standing proud and illuminated against the harbour, of Sydney’s commitment to visibility, inclusion, and celebration.


Sundays at The Beresford: Where Sydney’s Queer Weekend Ends with a Bang

If you’re in Sydney on a Sunday and not at The Beresford, darling then what are you doing with your life?

Ask any local gay, visiting queer, or Mardi Gras veteran (like yours truly), and they’ll tell you: The Beresford Hotel on a Sunday is not just a night out it’s an institution. A sacred ritual. A glittery, sweaty, sun-soaked exhale at the end of the week.

The Vibe? Think Euro Summer Meets Aussie Pub

The first time I went was in the early 2000s dragged there by friends from Darlinghurst after a late brunch and a laze in Prince Alfred Park. At the time, I thought we were heading to a typical pub. I was very wrong.

The Beresford is two worlds in one:

  • Upstairs, it’s a full-blown nightclub, packed wall to wall, body to body, beat to beat.
  • Downstairs and out in the courtyard, it’s alfresco magic lush greenery, cocktails clinking, and shirtless men mingling under the Sydney sun.

There’s something uniquely Sydney about it: the casual sexiness, the mix of locals and tourists, the easy friendliness that makes you feel like you’ve been going there for years—even if it’s your first time.

What to Expect

Doors open early and the courtyard starts filling up mid-afternoon, especially in summer. People drift in post-beach, sun-kissed from Coogee or Bondi, wearing linen shorts, speedo tans, and that effortless Aussie glow. I usually arrive around 4pm with friends, grab a jug of spritz or a round of beers, and settle into people-watching heaven.

By 6pm, the place is packed. The music ramps up. Friends become flirts. Strangers become dance partners. And if you head upstairs after sunset, it turns into a full queer club night without the late start (perfect if you’re still slightly jet-lagged or trying to pretend you’re having an early one).

Mardi Gras Sundays? Next-Level.

If you’re lucky enough to be in Sydney during Mardi Gras season, The Beresford on a Sunday is a scene. Expect queues down the block, drag queens making an entrance, international DJs, and everyone dressed in festival finery. Think harnesses, sequins, speedos, feathers and sometimes all at once.

It’s loud, sweaty, joyous, and distinctly Sydney. I’ve spent the tail end of many Mardi Gras weekends dancing under the fairy lights in that courtyard, drink in hand, surrounded by beautiful souls from every corner of the world. It’s the kind of vibe that stays with you long after the glitter has washed off.

Tips from a Seasoned Sunday Regular

  • Arrive early if you want a good courtyard spot especially in peak season.
  • Dress comfortably, but stylishly. This is still Sydney. A casual tank top and tailored shorts will do just fine.
  • Expect to bump into everyone new friends, old flings, drag performers, and possibly that guy you met at the beach.
  • Stay hydrated the Aussie sun plus a couple of espresso martinis can sneak up on you.
  • Don’t over-plan your night. You’ll probably end up staying later than expected… and loving every second.

There are gay bars and clubs all over the world—but The Beresford on a Sunday is something special. It’s equal parts backyard barbecue, outdoor club, community catch-up, and Dionysian dance party. Whether you’re a Mardi Gras newbie or a veteran like me who’s been making this pilgrimage for decades, this is the Sunday session to mark in bold on your calendar.

Where to Stay


🌈 Oxford Street & Darlinghurst Gay Bars

Okay I know at the start I said I wouldn’t do a bar list so sue me. Here are some perenial favourites which are still around unlike Exchange Hotel / Spectrum / Q-Bar / Albury Hotel.

Stonewall Hotel

  • Address: 175 Oxford St, Darlinghurst
  • Website: stonewallhotel.com
  • Description: Sydney’s flagship queer venue — three levels with themed bars, drag shows, DJ nights, and go-go dancers nearly every evening

The Oxford Hotel

  • Address: 134 Oxford St, Darlinghurst
  • Website: theoxfordhotel.com.au
  • Description: A classic corner pub with versatile vibes — street-level bar/deck, basement club, and upstairs Ginger’s hosting cabaret, drag bingo, and live acts

Palms on Oxford

  • Address: 124 Oxford St, Darlinghurst NSW 2010
  • Instagram: PalmsOnOxford
  • Description: Fun-loving retro dive bar playing ‘80s–’00s hits, featuring Flashback Fridays; cosy atmosphere with a dance floor and bar seating

Universal

  • Address: 85–91 Oxford St, Darlinghurst NSW 2010
  • Instagram: UniversalSydney
  • Description: Inclusive venue upstairs featuring drag performances and lively DJ sets; Sundays are laid-back “Hospo Mondays” are a quieter midweek treat

The Colombian Hotel

  • Address: 176 Oxford St, Darlinghurst NSW 2010
  • Website: colombian.com.au
  • Description: Spacious and relaxed former bank venue with cushy booths and intimate people-watching on Oxford Street. By far my favourite of the Oxford Street bars.

Ching-a-lings

  • Address: (Hidden gem behind an unmarked door) Oxford St @ Taylor Square
  • Instagram: Ching-a-lings
  • Description: Small, stylish speakeasy bar with wooden roof deck; hosts lofi drag nights and queer open-mic events hidden, camp treasure with outdoor space

🌟 Beyond the Golden Mile

The Imperial Hotel (Erskineville)

  • Address: 35 Erskineville Rd, Erskineville NSW 2043
  • Website: imperialsydney.com.au
  • Description: A legendary queer cabaret powerhouse with drag bingo, dinner theatre, and an intimate dance-floor in the basement

The Beresford Hotel

  • Address: 354 Bourke St, Surry Hills NSW 2010
  • Website: beresfordhotel.com.au
  • Description: Casual-chic with lush courtyard seating; Sundays explode into packed queer dance parties upstairs think cocktails and community under the sun (see more above)

Quick Vibe Guide

BarVibeExpect
StonewallDrag shows, three-level experienceBig nights out, dancers
OxfordPub vibes with drag, bingo nightsMixed events, midweek fun
PalmsRetro club hitsDancing to guilty pleasures
UniversalInclusive with drag + DJsSundays, midweek evenings
ColombianRelaxed, people-watchingChill chatting or date nights
Ching-a-lingsHidden, artsy, intimateNiche shows, queer arts
ImperialCabaret powerhouseDrag + dinner extravaganza
BeresfordCasual courtyard → dance upstairsSunday sessions and social

25 years and still loving Sydney

Sydney has been my Mardi Gras pilgrimage for over 25 years, an annual refuge of queer joy, beaches, and city adventures. From sunset Speedos at Cobblers to parade floats rolling down Oxford Street, this city tethers me to a pilgrimage of community and light. Each year brings fresh faces, a new sunset, and that same irresistible Sydney embrace.

Here’s to many more sunlit Mardi Gras seasons and salty-coastal memories from Down Under!

Welcome to Sydney, the Harbour City, where golden beaches, iconic architecture, and a laid-back coastal charm come together in perfect harmony. Located along the shimmering shores of the Pacific Ocean, Sydney enchants travelers with its world-renowned landmarks—from the soaring sails of the Sydney Opera House and the sweeping arc of the Harbour Bridge to the surf-kissed sands of Bondi and Manly. Explore the city’s vibrant neighbourhoods, from the historic Rocks to the bustling laneways of Surry Hills, and indulge in fresh seafood and fine wines at harbourside restaurants. Whether you’re sailing across sparkling waters, strolling through the lush Royal Botanic Garden, or catching a performance beneath the stars, Sydney invites you to experience a dazzling blend of natural beauty, urban sophistication, and sun-drenched adventure. (SYD, YSSY, XSY)

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